During the early part of last winter, the worst part, I imagined coming south to the far west desert, on my bike the whole way. I imagined just how hard it would be, mentally as well as on my body. I started imagining how. How I would do it. And I thought of the hot spring throughout this part of the world. I started researching and found one in particular that stood out to me. One that required a long trek into the depths of big bend national park, including some off road riding and capped with a hike. But before any of that, in the junction between the state and national park is a deserted town - a ghost town - that once thrived with mercury miners. The scent of arsenic still lingers. Terlingua is now home to the souls that I relate to - the left and leaving. Those that admittedly, and for some,  righteously, do not fit. Or just need to hide, indefinitely. I was greeted well there. Young and old pointed to places that would take me in. But the park and its hot spring called me. I barrelled down into the park entrance where a matter-of-fact woman told me after I'd paid my 20 bucks that my campsite would be on the left, two hours ahead! Seriously. The most beautiful two hours. Vista after vista, bigger and higher and more stunning. Then a rough sign flashed. Hot  springs. I locked up and hit the turn. An amazing set of switchbacks got me to the trail head. I left my riding boots on and about ran the half mile hike to the opening. There it was. Full of smiling faces and more perfect than I could have imagined. I jumped behind a bush, changed fast and slid into the hot sulphuric aroma of the naturally heated pool. The heat from the water like a morphine shot to my muscles and bones. After some time, reflecting on the realization that I'd made it, that after 4000km of riding, this was my destination, I was struck with an incredible longing to be with my sons. And I was full of warmth at the thought that the next part of my trip would bring me closer to them, day by day, mile by mile. Then I stood up, jumped off the ledge into the rio grande river and swam to mexico. I met a man from brighton england midway, and he joined me and we laughed out loud.